Carburetor Sticking

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Carburetor Sticking

TERRYB
I have a 2003 500 Classic. The throttle sticks wide open while in 4th gear when I open the throttle all the way open. This has been a problem for several years and I've polished the inside of the carburetor where the slide moves up and down, replaced the cable and it still sticks. I have to hit the kill switch, pull over and tap the carburetor to make the slide go down. It will not stick on the bench or when it's on the engine and the engine is not running. It acts like there is a vacuum of some sort going on when I give it full throttle. Any help or advise would be appreciated.,

Terry Boehm


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Re: Carburetor Sticking

Patrick Tooke
There is a strong vacuum in the carb. Moto Guzzi uses very strong springs in their Delorto carbs for that reason.
Your spring may have weakened over time, or if you're running one of the open filters like K&N, they allow
larger dust particles to enter the motor. Your slide may be worn enough to cock the slide side ways.
Like an SU carb, a few drops of oil every week may cure it.
On Nov 10, 2012, at 6:55 AM, TERRYB wrote:

> I have a 2003 500 Classic. The throttle sticks wide open while in 4th gear when I open the throttle all the way open. This has been a problem for several years and I've polished the inside of the carburetor where the slide moves up and down, replaced the cable and it still sticks. I have to hit the kill switch, pull over and tap the carburetor to make the slide go down. It will not stick on the bench or when it's on the engine and the engine is not running. It acts like there is a vacuum of some sort going on when I give it full throttle. Any help or advise would be appreciated.,
>
> Terry Boehm
>
>
>

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Re: Carburetor Sticking

NYCBSAers
In reply to this post by TERRYB
This has been a problem for several years and I've polished the  inside of
the carburetor where the slide moves up and down, replaced the cable  and it
still sticks.
___________________________________
 
Check to see if the mounting flange of the carb is flat.  If not,  somebody
[ ;o) ] over tightened the carb and it is out of round.  They  can actually
be squeezed back to round.
 
Marty
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Re: Carburetor Sticking

Royalenfield
In reply to this post by TERRYB
All to do with cable routing…
It is a relatively common issue and has several causes: the throttle cable where it comes out the top of the carb is quite likely to be catching on the fuel tank, and if the cable is run though the small hole in/out of the top of the casquette, the additional tight bends in the cable will at times cause enough friction to override the throttle spring tension. Situation is occasionally made worse by 'burrs' on the inside of the twist grip or the throttle grip not fitting the sleeve properly and binding in the kill switch housing
Not helped at times by the way in which the air box attaches to the carb, or when a Pod filter is fitted directly on to the carb. The latter can cause the carb to `droop' bringing the cable into further contact under the rear of the fuel tank.
Replacing the original rubber manifold rubber (which are prone to cracking) with a slightly shorter section of Radiator hose will bring the carb a wee bit closer to the Head, and move the top of the cable clear of the fuel tank, then running the throttle cable below the front tank mount, and then from the front of the tank, directly up and into the twist grip. By pass the casquette completely.
All of which should effect a much straighter cable run.

Tim
N.Z.


--- In [hidden email], "TERRYB" <tcboehm1@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 2003 500 Classic. The throttle sticks wide open while in 4th gear when I open the throttle all the way open. This has been a problem for several years and I've polished the inside of the carburetor where the slide moves up and down, replaced the cable and it still sticks. I have to hit the kill switch, pull over and tap the carburetor to make the slide go down. It will not stick on the bench or when it's on the engine and the engine is not running. It acts like there is a vacuum of some sort going on when I give it full throttle. Any help or advise would be appreciated.,
>
> Terry Boehm
>


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Re: Carburetor Sticking

TERRYB
Has anyone installed a stronger spring?  I've made sure that the cable doesn't make contact with the tank and as mentioned before I polished the inside of the carburetor where the slide moves up and down and installed a new cable. I even routed the cable differently.

Thanks, Terry

--- In [hidden email], "Royalenfield" <royalenfield@...> wrote:

>
> All to do with cable routing…
> It is a relatively common issue and has several causes: the throttle cable where it comes out the top of the carb is quite likely to be catching on the fuel tank, and if the cable is run though the small hole in/out of the top of the casquette, the additional tight bends in the cable will at times cause enough friction to override the throttle spring tension. Situation is occasionally made worse by 'burrs' on the inside of the twist grip or the throttle grip not fitting the sleeve properly and binding in the kill switch housing
> Not helped at times by the way in which the air box attaches to the carb, or when a Pod filter is fitted directly on to the carb. The latter can cause the carb to `droop' bringing the cable into further contact under the rear of the fuel tank.
> Replacing the original rubber manifold rubber (which are prone to cracking) with a slightly shorter section of Radiator hose will bring the carb a wee bit closer to the Head, and move the top of the cable clear of the fuel tank, then running the throttle cable below the front tank mount, and then from the front of the tank, directly up and into the twist grip. By pass the casquette completely.
> All of which should effect a much straighter cable run.
>
> Tim
> N.Z.
>
>
> --- In [hidden email], "TERRYB" <tcboehm1@> wrote:
> >
> > I have a 2003 500 Classic. The throttle sticks wide open while in 4th gear when I open the throttle all the way open. This has been a problem for several years and I've polished the inside of the carburetor where the slide moves up and down, replaced the cable and it still sticks. I have to hit the kill switch, pull over and tap the carburetor to make the slide go down. It will not stick on the bench or when it's on the engine and the engine is not running. It acts like there is a vacuum of some sort going on when I give it full throttle. Any help or advise would be appreciated.,
> >
> > Terry Boehm
> >
>


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Re: Carburetor Sticking

blltrdr81
In reply to this post by Royalenfield
I had a similar problem this last summer. I found it to be a distortion
in my metal throttle. I figured it was due to mating the throttle to the
original bars over many years then changing the bars out to a very
comfortable set of M bars from Norman Hyde. To resolve this problem I
slid a socket with the same I.D. inside the throttle and about 3/4 of
the way down it stopped. I used a file to reshape the throttle tube
until the socket slid all the way through. I think Tim is probably
correct at the assumption that the problem lies somewhere in the
throttle and not the slide. The cable would be easy to check by removing
it from the throttle and by pulling by hand to see if you have any
hangup with cable or slide. If not you will have to look at the throttle
action.
--- In [hidden email], "Royalenfield" <royalenfield@...>
wrote:
>
> All to do with cable routing…
> It is a relatively common issue and has several causes: the throttle
cable where it comes out the top of the carb is quite likely to be
catching on the fuel tank, and if the cable is run though the small hole
in/out of the top of the casquette, the additional tight bends in the
cable will at times cause enough friction to override the throttle
spring tension. Situation is occasionally made worse by 'burrs' on the
inside of the twist grip or the throttle grip not fitting the sleeve
properly and binding in the kill switch housing
> Not helped at times by the way in which the air box attaches to the
carb, or when a Pod filter is fitted directly on to the carb. The latter
can cause the carb to `droop' bringing the cable into further contact
under the rear of the fuel tank.
> Replacing the original rubber manifold rubber (which are prone to
cracking) with a slightly shorter section of Radiator hose will bring
the carb a wee bit closer to the Head, and move the top of the cable
clear of the fuel tank, then running the throttle cable below the front
tank mount, and then from the front of the tank, directly up and into
the twist grip. By pass the casquette completely.
> All of which should effect a much straighter cable run.
>
> Tim
> N.Z.
>
>
> --- In [hidden email], "TERRYB" tcboehm1@ wrote:
> >
> > I have a 2003 500 Classic. The throttle sticks wide open while in
4th gear when I open the throttle all the way open. This has been a
problem for several years and I've polished the inside of the carburetor
where the slide moves up and down, replaced the cable and it still
sticks. I have to hit the kill switch, pull over and tap the carburetor
to make the slide go down. It will not stick on the bench or when it's
on the engine and the engine is not running. It acts like there is a
vacuum of some sort going on when I give it full throttle. Any help or
advise would be appreciated.,
> >
> > Terry Boehm
> >
>


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Re: Re: Carburetor Sticking

fiferwd
In reply to this post by TERRYB
By any chance do you have the heavy duty cable? when my my original cable broke I replaced it with a heavy duty and had the same problem.  When I went back to the OEM the problem went away.
 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: TERRYB <[hidden email]>
To: royalenfield <[hidden email]>
Sent: Sun, Nov 11, 2012 9:20 am
Subject: [Enfield] Re: Carburetor Sticking


 
   
                 
Has anyone installed a stronger spring?  I've made sure that the cable doesn't make contact with the tank and as mentioned before I polished the inside of the carburetor where the slide moves up and down and installed a new cable. I even routed the cable differently.

   


 
 
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Re: Carburetor Sticking

Royalenfield
I even routed the cable differently.
>


It can be a bugger to get right, and I too often have the same problem getting the throttle to return sweetly.
It seems that if you dont hold your tongue right, and say the correct incantation then the Twist-grip Gods will often turn thier back on you.

Tim
N.Z.
 

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Re: Re: Carburetor Sticking

P Snidal
At 11:53 AM 11/13/2012, you wrote:
>It can be a bugger to get right, and I too often have the same
>problem getting the throttle to return sweetly.
>It seems that if you dont hold your tongue right, and say the
>correct incantation then the Twist-grip Gods will often turn thier back on you.

And that only after you've eschewed the routing through the li'l hole
in the casquette.  I've always run mine up into the air from the
twistgrip, then down and alongside the headlamp above the lower
tripletree on normal motorcyles, and below the tree and alongside the
inside of the tank tunnel in Enfields.  A bracket made from stiffish
wire can be fashioned to hold it from getting caught in the fork stop.

As I say in MY WELL-KNOWN and HIGHLY TOUTED CD MANUAL, which can be
found making me a rrich man indeed at www.enfield.20m.com   Thank
you, thank you, one and all!  (Except of course Al whatisname..)

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Re: Carburetor Sticking

Marv & Marg
In reply to this post by TERRYB
Guys,

This is a forum for Royal Enfield Motorcycles. Not a forum for boorish
behavior. I do not need to read personal attacks against anyone and am
distressed that any of you would resort to this kind of reprehensible
behavior just because someone is bored or has a wild hair up the wherever.

None of the personal attacks accomplish anything except to make the attacker
look like a complete idiot. Let's just stick to motorcycles and take the
stupidity to some other place. Just sayin'

Marv

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Re: Carburetor Sticking

Bullet-3
In reply to this post by P Snidal
Damn that trick with the wire is almost good enough to make you a Kiwi Pete, you'll be ok.

--- In [hidden email], P Snidal <snidepete@...> wrote:

>
> At 11:53 AM 11/13/2012, you wrote:
> >It can be a bugger to get right, and I too often have the same
> >problem getting the throttle to return sweetly.
> >It seems that if you dont hold your tongue right, and say the
> >correct incantation then the Twist-grip Gods will often turn thier back on you.
>
> And that only after you've eschewed the routing through the li'l hole
> in the casquette.  I've always run mine up into the air from the
> twistgrip, then down and alongside the headlamp above the lower
> tripletree on normal motorcyles, and below the tree and alongside the
> inside of the tank tunnel in Enfields.  A bracket made from stiffish
> wire can be fashioned to hold it from getting caught in the fork stop.
>
> As I say in MY WELL-KNOWN and HIGHLY TOUTED CD MANUAL, which can be
> found making me a rrich man indeed at www.enfield.20m.com   Thank
> you, thank you, one and all!  (Except of course Al whatisname..)
>


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Re: Carburetor Sticking

TERRYB
I'm thinking about installing the 30MM Flat Side Carburetor on my 2003 500 Royal Enfield to cure my carburetor sticking problem and putting my MiCarb in my junk pile. Has anyone installed one of these???

Terry
USA


--- In [hidden email], "Bullet" <chris.bulletwallas@...> wrote:

>
> Damn that trick with the wire is almost good enough to make you a Kiwi Pete, you'll be ok.
>
> --- In [hidden email], P Snidal <snidepete@> wrote:
> >
> > At 11:53 AM 11/13/2012, you wrote:
> > >It can be a bugger to get right, and I too often have the same
> > >problem getting the throttle to return sweetly.
> > >It seems that if you dont hold your tongue right, and say the
> > >correct incantation then the Twist-grip Gods will often turn thier back on you.
> >
> > And that only after you've eschewed the routing through the li'l hole
> > in the casquette.  I've always run mine up into the air from the
> > twistgrip, then down and alongside the headlamp above the lower
> > tripletree on normal motorcyles, and below the tree and alongside the
> > inside of the tank tunnel in Enfields.  A bracket made from stiffish
> > wire can be fashioned to hold it from getting caught in the fork stop.
> >
> > As I say in MY WELL-KNOWN and HIGHLY TOUTED CD MANUAL, which can be
> > found making me a rrich man indeed at www.enfield.20m.com   Thank
> > you, thank you, one and all!  (Except of course Al whatisname..)
> >
>


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Re: Carburetor Sticking

William J Fowler


--- In [hidden email], "TERRYB" <tcboehm1@...> wrote:
>
> I'm thinking about installing the 30MM Flat Side Carburetor on my 2003 500 Royal Enfield to cure my carburetor sticking problem and putting my MiCarb in my junk pile. Has anyone installed one of these???
>
> Terry

Hi Terry and list,

   I have one of the 30 mm flatside on my Bullet deluxe. After sorting out jetting issues, it runs excellent. The down side is it will get a little less on fuel mileage with it and jetting is very dependent on the other modifications you have made to your bike. My Original mik carb didn't accelerate as fast and was a little harder to start when cold. My cable routing stayed the same. I never fail to oil the cable at ther beginning of the Spring though. If you are new to Enfields, you do need Pete's manual . It does do the best job of any of them. Please ignore Al, and come back to the list. He's the only one we got like that and he stays pretty quiet most of the time.

Till next time,
Jeff


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Re: Carburetor Sticking

TERRYB
Thanks for your reply. I have the 50s style muffler with the baffle removed. Can you tell me what size jets you ended up installing?
Thanks, Terry…


--- In [hidden email], "truck2841" <truck2841@...> wrote:

>
>
>
> --- In [hidden email], "TERRYB" <tcboehm1@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm thinking about installing the 30MM Flat Side Carburetor on my 2003 500 Royal Enfield to cure my carburetor sticking problem and putting my MiCarb in my junk pile. Has anyone installed one of these???
> >
> > Terry
>
> Hi Terry and list,
>
>    I have one of the 30 mm flatside on my Bullet deluxe. After sorting out jetting issues, it runs excellent. The down side is it will get a little less on fuel mileage with it and jetting is very dependent on the other modifications you have made to your bike. My Original mik carb didn't accelerate as fast and was a little harder to start when cold. My cable routing stayed the same. I never fail to oil the cable at ther beginning of the Spring though. If you are new to Enfields, you do need Pete's manual . It does do the best job of any of them. Please ignore Al, and come back to the list. He's the only one we got like that and he stays pretty quiet most of the time.
>
> Till next time,
> Jeff
>


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Re: Carburetor Sticking

William J Fowler


--- In [hidden email], "TERRYB" <tcboehm1@...> wrote:

>
> Thanks for your reply. I have the 50s style muffler with the baffle removed. Can you tell me what size jets you ended up installing?
> Thanks, Terry…
>
>
> --- In [hidden email], "truck2841" <truck2841@> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In [hidden email], "TERRYB" <tcboehm1@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm thinking about installing the 30MM Flat Side Carburetor on my 2003 500 Royal Enfield to cure my carburetor sticking problem and putting my MiCarb in my junk pile. Has anyone installed one of these???
> > >
> > > Terry
> >
> > Hi Terry and list,
> >
> >    I have one of the 30 mm flatside on my Bullet deluxe. After sorting out jetting issues, it runs excellent. The down side is it will get a little less on fuel mileage with it and jetting is very dependent on the other modifications you have made to your bike. My Original mik carb didn't accelerate as fast and was a little harder to start when cold. My cable routing stayed the same. I never fail to oil the cable at ther beginning of the Spring though. If you are new to Enfields, you do need Pete's manual . It does do the best job of any of them. Please ignore Al, and come back to the list. He's the only one we got like that and he stays pretty quiet most of the time.
> >
> > Till next time,
> > Jeff
>

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: William Fowler <[hidden email]>
Date: November 18, 2012, 11:07:56 AM EST
To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: Carburetor Sticking

Hello Terry and group,

   I have #25 main jet and a # 38 slow speed jet in my JRC copy of a Keihin PWK 30 flat side carburator as sold by Nfield Gear of Faribault, MN. The needle is set at the second notch. This propells my somewhat portly 250 pound frame down a reasonably level road at up to 68 m.p.h.(eventually) on 87 Octane Oxygenated gas that is sold here in the northern Ohio area. There are a few things to consider before
You set this carb up that I found out, and I will list them below;

1. My bike has a free flowing K&N cone air cleaner element and a short muffler with no baffle,  
   and , a bolt through the bottom so the man can't check it by sticking a night stick into it.  Stock
   ones don't breath good  as
   Needed for this jet setting.

2. JRC and Keihin have different jet numbers. I USE KEIHIN NUMBERS ONLY when referring to
   the jets because a lot of the posted info I read is mixed up numbers from one with the other
   and the posters didn't even know they are doing it. I believe one gentleman had jets from 2
   Different sources and couldn't understand he really had a problem with jet numbers, not the
   Jets.

3. You must listen for pinging when you riding it. I tried the next size smaller and got some so I    
   stopped and changed the jets back immediately!

4. With an air cooled engine every one runs better slightly rich at idle because it means it runs a
   Little cooler. Slightly rich is better than slightly lean at all settings to me but idle is the only
   Range where you have to be a little rich. Do plug chops to check mid range and flat out range.

5. These carbs are extremely popular with the off road riders and may not be as good on fuel as
   Your Mik carb but the chrome slide will probably last longer and is smoother and more
   responsive to me than the Indian made Mik copy your bike came with. I am not prejudiced
   against the Mik carb, it is one of my all time favorites, but in this application for my style of
   riding, it is not quite the best.

6. If you are going to do any further engine work to the bike in the future, such as going to bigger
   Valves and a ported and polished head or higher compression combined with more engine
   displacement then you might be better to not replace the carb yet and, after getting the work
   done, going with a 34 mm Mikuni or a 930 Amal as these have a size bore that will work better
   with the modifications

7. There are 2 versions of this carb out there, one with a flange that bolts directly to the head and
   one that uses a little rubber boot like the stock Indian Mik carb uses. I have the flanged one. I
   think there is no difference in performance but some like one over the other. The rubber boot
   means it does need extra support or you will eventually end up with an air leak on the manifold
   end of it.

8.The enrichner is hard to get to. There is a modification out there to put a cable to it out there on
  the web. I don't know how we'll it works in the long run as I don't have it.

9. Since it is the only one that is in English and is clearly written with tuning info that can be used
   with any carb you might want to put on these bikes irregardless of other engine modifications,
   I suggest you get Pete Sneidel's manual. Also read as much as you can on the web, but when
   you read, consider the words very carefully.

10. Get a printed copy of the catalogs from Nfield Gear and Hitchcock's (from England) to read
     them cover to cover.


Good Luck !

Jeff


Sent from my iPad
>

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